Tommy

9th Oct 12′ Kinitra – Mauritania Embassy, Rabat, Morocco

22 miles. This morning, we left the well-deserved four star hotel in Kinitra, Morocco and headed off on the 15 mile journey to the Mauritania Embassy so we could apply for our visa’. On arrival, it was evident all would not go to plan as there were already approx. 100 people crowded around and in the small office which had no windows. There was no organisation or queuing and the crowd of applicants soon began to fight and argue with each other as to who was next in line. The Mauritania Embassy is renowned for being busy and considering they

8th Oct 12′ Ronda Valley, Spain – Kinitra, Morocco

225 road miles. Early this morning before leaving our shedued campsite, we made comunual coffee then continued our journey thriough the Ronda Valley. Last night Fre decided to follow in Dai’s foot steps and slept tentless under the stars, therefore, not leaving much to pack though Fre being Fre was still the last to finish. As the sun lifted in the sky it cast shadows across the mountain sides making one half in darkenss and the other in bright sunshine. There was a freshness in the air but not too cold – perfect riding weather really. Fre had already covered many milesto meet

7th Oct 12′ Greetings, Wild Camp, Spain – Ronda Valley, Spain

Approx. 456 miles. Last night, on arrival in to Bilbao port we assisted some other riders unstrap their bikes, before saying our goodbye’s to the lovely people we met on board. On dry land (but still swaying from the effects of the boat) met Fre, our Belgium friend. That now made us “the three adventure road hogs”. It was cool and overcast but at least it wasnt raining. Even though on dry land the effects of the 24 hour sailing gently rocking us from side to side made me feel as if I was still on board. Either that or the

5/6th Oct 12′ Farewell, Hampton – Portsmouth – Bilbao

Approx. 220 road miles. All packed and ready to go (see my equipment list), I left Hampton feeling very sad to be leaving my lovely wife for so long, but couldn’t wait to see what this adventure would have in store for me. Prior to me leaving, Kerry suggested she run a blog alongside mine with regards life without me. We could call it “the wine route”. Let’s see if that happens, I think it would make very interesting reading especially whilst in Tennerife. We look forward to your weekly blogs. The bike is well over loaded with all kinds

20th Day. Monday 27th June, 2011. Pico, Spain – Santander Port, Spain. 150 miles?

Luckily the river hadn’t flooded due to the storm during the night but Thomas was not happy to be packing his wet tent away. Thomas took a lay in that morning, probably due to sun stroke but also was in no rush as he had plenty of time to reach the ferry port in Santander for his afternoon departure. Thomas was sad the trip was coming to an end but glad to be homeward bound to see his Mrs again and looking forward to sleep in his own, proper bed. Eventually and within plenty of time, Thomas arrived at the

19th Day. Sunday 26th June, 2011. Murus, Galacia, Spain – Pico, Spain. 280 miles ?

The next morning, Thomas departed the San Francisco campsite and followed the prat nav, turning right out of the campsite heading up into the hills. Immediately the single track took him through a near by village where a line of bins blocked the way. Thomas stopped to see why and was then waved through by a couple of the locals. The lane was sprinkled in flower petals in preparation for a wedding that day, so Thomas tried carefully to avoid them but still scattered the petals. The lane became steeper and steeper to the point; he had to turn back

18th Day, Saturday 25th June 2011. Murus, Galacia, Spain. 0 miles.

Thomas enjoyed another day off in Galicia this time, starting with a coffee and a short stroll to the beach for the final burn. The beach was deserted and he wondered why. He got the sense and the smell that something unpleasant was lurking. It was then he noticed a sewage plant just over the wall and relocated to the next bay where bathers started to arrive. Although the temperature rose to around 30’, the sun didn’t seem that strong to Thomas as the Atlantic breeze cooled him down. It was later when Thomas returned to the camp and looked

17th Day, Friday 24th June, 2011. Braga, Portugal – Murus, Galacia, Spain. 150 miles.

Thomas was intrigued by today’s campsite choice on Spain’s North West coast ‘San Francisco’. He had never toured this area of Spain before and was excited. As he quickly packed his full camping kit away, he heard a ‘Pardon’. It was one of the German hippies poking his head out from a hole in his tent with at least 40 empty beer cans by the entrance and apologised for the noise the night before. With delight from the hippy, Thomas tried to explain he hadn’t heard anything and that it wasn’t him who complained. Thomas was now used to sharing

16th Day, Thursday 23rd June, 2011. Braga, Portugal. 0 miles.

Today is Thomas’ well deserved day off and he woke to the sound the hippies cracking their breakfast beer at 0700. As it was a Thursday and approaching the weekend, already the camp was getting busy with the constant sounds of people arriving and car doors slamming. Thomas washed just in time to wave the bikers farewell and safe riding. On his days off, Thomas still felt the need to explore so set off by foot on a hike around the nearby lake. There is always something to do whilst on the road he pondered whilst looking for the campsite,

15th Day, Wednesday 22nd June, 2011. Castelo Branco, Portugal – Braga, Portugal. 225 miles.

That morning, Thomas discovered that the hammock not only acted as a very comfortable bed but also a canopy, catching any falling insects and leaves from the trees above. Though Thomas was still glad it had kept him off the cold ground and away from the killer ants and he wondered what he may have eaten during the night. He didn’t particularly sleep well but persevered until the morning. Thomas had now been on the road for several days since his week off in Estepona, and began to loose track of the days, time and more worryingly which town he

14th Day, Tuesday 21st June, 2011. Guadalupe, Spain – Castelo Branco, Portugal. 152.2 miles.

Thomas woke to the hollowing of the same owl he went to sleep to. The day ahead was a relatively easy 152.2 mile ride to Castelo Branco heading towards Northern Portugal with an estimated journey time of only four hours. The morning was a cool 24’, much lower than usual. Thomas put this down to the altitude. What few campers were on site still slept. Along the way, Thomas pulled over to re fuel, and then decided to leave his bike while he visited a local market near by the Portuguese border. Thomas was still on the hunt for a

13th Day. Monday 20th June 2011. Albufeira, Portugal – Guadalupe, Spain. 323 miles.

Thomas woke heavily hung-over due to bedbug, ant bites and food poisoning. Unbeknown to him today’s ride was going to be the toughest, although not the furthest, passing over Spains Sierra Nevada and Toledo mountains, consisting of a 323 mile ride to Spain’s Guadalupe. The temperature rose to 39’C and the surrounding fields were desert like. With his full protective bike kit on (helmet, gloves, long socks, off road enduro boots and a goretek armoured jacket and trousers) he found the riding exhausting whilst twisting around the farmers lanes for the entire journey. Thomas lifted his helmet lid for some

12th Day, Sunday 19th June 2011. Albufeira, Portugal. 0 miles.

Last night, Thomas ate a disappointing meal at the campsite then braved a short bus journey into Albufeira’s old town where he joined the Dutch and Brit tourists. The later it became the busier it got and of course the more drunk the tourists became. The old town was beautifully lit up at night as it sat by the deserted beach overlooking the tranquil sea. Thomas sat and watched with amusement at the bullying tactics of the PR’s employed by the bars and restaurants to drag people in from the street and then charge astronomical prices for poor quality food

11th Day, Saturday 18th June 2011, Estepona, Spain – Albefeira, Portugal. 325 miles.

For some reason, Thomas hasn’t entered a log for the next two days and can only put this down to possibly not wanting to remember his visit to the highly populated tourist area of Albufeira in Portugals Algarve. Thomas felt he had cheated himself by choosing to hire an expensive lodge for the next two nights instead of the usual cost of a tent pitch, although he did downsize from a luxury five bedroom villa! Thomas felt alone that day knowing he was going to be without his gorgeous wife for the next ten days. The lanes from Estepona to

5th – 11th Day, Sunday 12th June – Saturday 18th June 2011. Estepona, Spain. 0 miles!

For the next week, Thomas enjoyed some relaxing time around the amazing villa with his wife and inlaws. Within that week they consumed huge amounts of food purchased from the local supermarket, ate, swam, sun bathed and sun bathed some moor. Other than relaxing, Thomas visited an amazing safari park situated over serveral mountain sides, visited the local market where he bought his Panama hat, which really didnt suit him and definately made him stand out from the locals. They all found the holiday very relaxing but sometimes challenging in close quaters. The luxury villa was peaceful and isolated away

4th Day, Saturday 11th June 2011. North of Alicante, Spain – Estepona, Spain. 476 miles.

The next morning, with the sun rising and the temperature alreadty 26′, Thomas woke at 0545, with the town still partying, he  packed, thanked the security guard for looking over Nomad and departed for Estepona near Marbella. Yet again the sat nav directed them both along disused looking dusty tracks where the wild dogs chased and snapped at his heels making him almost dump the bike whilst trying to avoid them, then got lost. The route took Thomas down the East coast of Spain then cut across through and over the Sierra Nevada mountains using an awsome twisty biking road

3rd Day, Friday 10th June 2011. Andorra – Alicante, Spain. 376 miles.

Compared to yesterday, this was a pretty uneventful day with the route taking Thomas out of the stormy mountains to skirt Barcalona then along the coast to just North of sunny Benidorm. Thomas had set his sat nav to minor roads as he always did and often the tarmac would turn to cobbles, dirt tracks or even Donkey paths. On this occasion he wished he hadnt. Along the way the tarmac once again turned to a stoney, dusty track surrounded by farmers fields, mostly growing oranges. The track became narrower and bumpier until Thomas and his bike who he had

2nd Day, Thursday 9th June 2011. Couhe, France – Andorra. 426 miles.

Knowing he had another long day ahead, Thomas woke at 0500, packed quietly whilst the Northampton biking group snored heavily after there few beers the night before. Also, Thomas had to be down in Estepona, Spain by Saturday afternoon, otherwise he would have had the Mother in law to answer to! Unfortunately, he was unable to exit the campsite gate as it was locked (he dosnt have much luck with gates). He kindly asked the receptionist to open them but she refused and bluntly advised him there must be quiet on the campsite until 0800 and thats when the gates

1st Day, Wednesdy 8th June. Hampton, England – Couhe, France. 542 miles.

Woke at 0400, loaded his already heavily ladened BMW with his remaining items and kissed his darling wife farewell whilst she still slept. Thomas immediately encountered problems and had to manually open the usually automatic exit gate from the under ground car park. He suspected the motor had burned out. Hampton was grim and he prayed for a rain free ride along the boring, direct motorway to Portsmouth. On arrival at the port, Thomas befriended a fellow biker, who, unbeknowing to them both would meet up later in the day. The wind was strong and a rough ferry crossing to

Wednesday 26th May 2010

After approximately 5500 miles, 3 weeks, 8 border crossings, 5 Ferry’s, 2 Bike dumps, 2 broken indicators, 3 severely dented panniers, 2 scratched/dented cylinder head cases, 2 bent wing mirrors, millions of splattered bugs, 1 dead bird, 100’s of mountain, coastal and desert roads, unaccountable beautiful scenic views , wind blistered lips, helmet rubbed scabby ears, only 4 mosquito bites, 2 bug bruised purple eye lids, 1 aching back, 2 aching knees and a huge phone bill!, Im home sweet home.

Tuesday 25th May 2010

Before departing ‘la Rive’, Biscarrsone, I left my bucket and spade with my French camping neighbours who helped me lose at bingo last night. I won’t be needing them where im going tomorrow. After 150 miles of long straight roads, I had to catch a short ferry to Royan, near La Rochelle. 195 mile later arriving in Dinon, France, I decided to press on to Caen in preparation for tomorrows sailing. 456 miles completed and 12 hours on a bike seat, his record to date. I had a disappointing, expensive meal in Caen. For the first time on this

Monday 24th May 2010

Its taken me a while but I have realised the bugs don’t wake till the sun is well up, so I hit the road early before they hit me. I compare an average size bug hitting you between the eyes at speed to being shot by a pellet gun and it’s not a matter of ‘if’ but ‘when’. I have suffered several purple eyelids on my travels. I have worked out the yellow splats – bees and wasps, red splats – mosquitos, black splats – hungry mosquitoes and the purple eye lids – the bird size black flying beetle that

Sunday 23rd May 2010

I departed the undiscovered paradise in North West Portugal. One day I will return. I cheated for the first time today and after 50 miles of scenic mountain roads, pine forests and gushing waterfalls, then crossed the unmanned border into Spain. I then took the auto route for 300 miles. The road was good with no other vehicles so cruised with ease at 120, then took a short cut on the twisty roads and over the hills into Bilbao, Spain, 439 miles in total. I compare Bilbao with a deserted cowboy town with an over the top traffic system involving

Saturday 22nd May 2010

After a 281 mile journey of mountain roads, I’m unsure as to which sure country I’m in, but thinks Barga is in North West Portugal near the Spanish border. The winding roads made it unable to exceed 30 mph making it a long 10 hour ride on ‘Nomad’. A halfway sleep by the roadside was required. The campsite is located high in the mountains in dense forest and im hoping to hear the wolves tonight. The locals speak a unique language, one I dont recognised. I think maybe it’s the accent and compare it to the Portuguese equivalent of

Friday 21st May 2010

I used the intense thermals to fly the 259 miles through the morning mist from Lagos to Santo Antonio Des Areias, Portugal. I then de toured to an old place of work, Alcochete near Lisbon. I used my nose to locate the distinct lacquer smelling factory pumping out fumes through out the countryside. Nothing much had changed. A new shopping centre and the odd newly constructed industrial unit. Arriving in Santo des Areias, I received a warm welcome from an English campsite owner, who then invited me for dinner with the local ex-pat community. Late afternoon, I climbed Marvao, a hill

Thursday 20th May 2010

Different country, different language and yet another time adjustment. I can’t keep up and think one world, one time, although agree with the romantic languages. The 319 miles from Santa Maria, Spain to Lagos, South coast of Portugal via Seville were long boring roads. I hired a ‘Bengolia’ for the night and headed into Lagos for dinner on my shiny clean bike. Tomorrow I will head further North into Portugal.

Wednesday 19th May 2010

I had a restless sleep due to a room full of cockroaches the size of a thumb and the resident cats trying to break in. I left Mohammedia heading for Ceuta (a Spanish Port in Morocco) with the sea to my left and the sun rising behind the silhouette of palm trees to my right. What more could I ask for. The weather was hot with a strong wind, I compare it to a 50000 Watt hair dryer. Whilst riding through the pot holed, farming roads of North Morocco the soldiers in the leading military truck requested a

Tuesday 18th May 2010

At 0430, I awake to the sound of crashing waves, then prayers being called. I had to think where I was. Today’s route will take me up 315 miles of scenic coast roads from Imousanne to Mohammedia. Along the way I stopped off to wash the salt and dust from my still broken looking bike. I successfully dodged the donkeys, roaming cattle, oncoming trucks two a breadth, potholes and people trying to sell me hashees whilst travelling at 60 mph. I eventually arrive safely at Camp Said. It was the worst campsite yet. On arrival, I had to peal my

Monday 17th May 2010

I successfully completed the now sealed Tizi n Techa pass. I would of liked to continue South through Western Sahara, Mauritania ect.. finally reaching South Africa, but I have my wedding to attend. Instead I’m homeward bound finally heading North. The 256 miles of mostly mountain roads from Marakesh to Imousanne were energy zapping. After hundreds of spectacular mountain and desert scenery, im happy to arrive by the sea and locate a quiet campsite in a little fishing village on the West coast of Morocco. The Atlantics huge, powerful waves makes it a suffers paradise, although I dont surf. The

Sunday 16th May 2010

Last night, I got lost in Marakesh. I woke late, aching from yesterdays little tumble. The Riad Guardian did my laundry as it was red with dust from the Atlas paths. I gifted him a miniature cognac in return, given to me by my neighbour before I left Hampton ‘sorry Carol’. For most of the day I relaxed by the Riad pond size pool whilst brushing off the creatures who also joined me. Being the only guest the guardian acted as a my own personal butler and followed me every where acting on every instruction. I took advantage

Saturday 15th May 2010

The roadside hotel in Boumaine du Dads treated me like a king, I loved it. The locals warned of a 7 hr ride to complete the 192 miles to Marakesh via the tiza n techza pass over the High Atlas mountains. It is a route I had planned well. Setting off I could see the snow peaked mountains ahead getting closer. Following the signs for Telouet, the road changed from tarmac to gravel. The now rocky road got steeper. I remembered, before I left my Dad advising ‘take no risks’, it was too late. The pass was too

Friday 14th May 2010

The next morning, I woke at 0515 in time for a spectacular sunrise emerging rapidly from the sand dunes. After saying our good byes to the cat, we set off on the return camel trek to Masouga in light wind and rain. In the desert? I ask. Reunited with my moto, I hit the road again to Quarzazate via the beautiful Todra Gorge. I again tested my off road skills on a 8km piste connecting Todra and Boumaine du Dades but was unsuccessful. The thought of being alone with no breakdown assistance able to attend the remote pistes, I was

Thursday 13th May 2010

My day off by the desert gave me a chance to relax a little before driving a 4×4 around Erg Chebbi desert and drink tea with the Nomads close to the Algerian border where we were constantly being watched suspiciously by the military from the surrounding hills. I then exchanged the wheels for legs and climbed aboard my designated camel ‘Hamu’ and headed deep into the dunes. It was dry and hot with no wind. En route we joined a caravan, riders being of Spanish, French and Dutch origin. Hamu struggled to keep up, reminding me of the globe trotter

Wednesday 12th May 2010

Today, I escaped from Fez. I found yesterdays ride challenging. Exchanging cigarettes with the guard I nervously set off on the 344 mile journey through the mid/low Atlas mountains. I was now used to the rain and had adapted various clothes drying techniques ie when hitting a dry spell, riding with my arms and legs spread. It seem to work. With the cloud so dense I was unable to overtake the 5 mph laden trucks crawling up the mountain. Once over the mid, the weather cleared and to my pleasant surprise the Atlas roads were amazingly well constructed. They made the

Tuesday 11th May 2010

I woke to prayers being called, echoing around the mountains. It was raining again. Why wasn’t it light I asked myself, then realised I hadn’t adjusted my clock, it was 0400 Moroccan. I continued to pack and put on my still wet riding kit. I then continued over and around the RIF mountains whilst avoiding the infamous white Mercedes packed with young men. Due to the dense cloud and lashing rain I was unable to see my speedometer. The roads rapidly deteriorated until there wasn’t any. Knee high torrents had washed away the tarmac down the mountain sides. Wanting

Monday 10th May 2010

After 193 miles, a ferry sailing, a stressful border crossing and a 5 Euro bribe, I arrived in North Africa. I camped in Chefchaouen in the RIF mountains of Morocco, 63 miles south of Ceuta. The smell from the marjuanna fields faintly drifted across the valleys. I will be riding down to Fez tomorrow and hope the weather improves. I have been rained on for the last 4 days since leaving France and doubt I will be attempting any off roading if it persists.

Sunday 9th May 2010

The 263 mile journey from remote Ossa De Montiel to Malaga was expected to be easy, little did I know there would be thunder storms the whole way, making the Spanish roads like ice skating rinks, often loosing the back end to diesel spills left by many tractors working the vine fields (my wifes wine supply). Peaking the final hill to sunny Malaga, the sea was in view and I let out a loud ‘Yessiii, Hola Malaga’ and grinned widely. With the tent pitched, I alarmingly noticed the signs dotted about which read ‘Prohibido Banador’ I decided to walk down to the naturist

Saturday 8th May 2010

Last night the restaurant finally opened. Apparently, the best in Pamplona called Europa. The meal/service was fantastic. Another early night only to be awaken by my American neighbours in the adjoining room. Once back to sleep, I struggled to wake at 0600 to find Pamplona’s residents still partying. I made a few minor repairs after yesterdays little accident and began the 450 mile journey through the mountainous region of Castilla, an 11 hour ride. It was freezing, though I thoroughly enjoyed being the only vehicle on the open road. Later that day, I found a lovely remote campsite and welcomed

Friday 7th May 2010

I awoke fresh as a daisy having had a good nights sleep in preparation for an early start before sunrise. I used my jet boil and thermorest for the 1st time and recommend them as camping essentials. Last night I predicted rain, I was wrong, it snowed! The 300 miles of snow covered mountains were difficult to ride through and im p….. off about dumping my bike. I find it hard to believe that I will be riding the dunes in a few days time. Once I crossed the Pyrenees into Spain, a hot bath and a hotel room

Thursday 6th May 2010

On board the ferry, I woke tired after only 2 hrs sleep due to a squeaky, vibrating cabin, but glad the crossing into Caen, France was calm. Now in the depth of France, I finally set up camp in Pons after travelling 575 miles since last night. The sun is out but temperatures cool and I predict rain. The bike is running ‘sweet as a nut’, better than ever! but the tom tom dosen’t beep loud enough to warn me I’m riding on the wrong side of the road. I wanted to apologise to the two hand flapping drivers I

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